Install just like you removed the old one. Loctite is provided, coat them up and install all 6 loosely, then tighten while alternating sides:
Once these two clips are out, slide the carrier forward to remove from the rear bushing, and you get:Īlso remove the circlip holding the front of the selector rod to the transmission selector shaft and pull it out, noting which end is "forward." I've marked mine with a zip tie.Īt this point you install the new shifter pivot (UUC calls it the ERK or 'effort reducing kit') with three small allen screws on each side. To do this, spread open the retaining feature, rotate about 90 degrees, and slide out perpendicular to the driveshaft. Once you do that, give a yank and you get:īack underneath, remove the two pins holding the carrier to the tranny. You do this with a set of needle nose pliers opened up.dig the sides in and spin.
My pair is a set of channel lock snap ring pliers - those things have earned their cost time and time again.įrom the top, you have to spin the nylon pivot cup with some needlenose to release the retention tabs that hold it to the carrier. They're not necessary but make life much easier.
Remove that circlip with some snapring pliers.
make sure you don't let the transmission free hang if it comes off your jack bring the jack up until it is holding the weight. remove the 4 bolts to the transmission crossmember place a jack under the tranny crossmember remove the 2 frontmost bolts holding up the heatshield and let it hang. Next, remove the exhaust heat shield (the real reason you have to remove the exhaust, as it blocks all access to the relevant area): lower the exhaust and set it on some blocks to keep it from hanging. careful on the aftmost one as it is holding your exhaust up. remove the center bolt of the exhaust hanger attached to the tranny housing. as a reminder, WD40 is not a true "penetrating" oil like PB or liquid wrench.) a little PB blaster or your favorite penetrating oil ahead of time will help things out. separate the 4 bolts at the bottom of the headers (these are $22 inconel bolts with pure copper nuts so be careful. i'm not responsible for you doing this wrong.)įirst things first, you have to lower the exhaust:
(as always, undertake these projects at your own risk. Quick rundown on the stuff before I started snapping pics: They do not come apart or flex like "clip together" shifters.ĬLICK HERE for more technical information.This DIY will serve as an 'in the family' addendum to already excellent instructions provided by UUC for installation:īig thumbs up to UUC for their pretty excellent instructions, and a major thank you to m圓30i for detailing everything very well.Īs a baseline, I snapped some shots of the stock ZHP shift lever with stock ZHP knob: The precision machining of these shifters makes them feel like a solid one-piece design that still absorbs vibration via the rubber inner section. UUC's "massive overkill" design philosophy exemplified. Special features that make the "Ultimate Short Shifter" unique:ġ00% CNC-machined 303 stainless steel construction. Simply loosen, slide lever to preferred height, and re-tighten.ĬNC-machined stainless steel lower section features integral pivot ball and self-adjusting primary pivot bearing.
Upper lever section is height-adjustable for driver comfort and personalized ergonomics. We use our own precision-machined pieces, all "massive overkill" designs, race-tested to ensure they easily surpass the rigors of street use. What makes the UUC Motorwerks short shifter kit so good is the engineering and attention to fine details, many different points that add up to tremendous differences in how the unit works and feels. NOTE: EVO3 shifters include cartridge bearings and delrin carrier bushings standard. EVO3 shifters featuring lower shift effort.